Princess Louise and the Sentinels

In the mountains, west of Banff National Park, the mighty Mt. Temple (11,627 feet) towers over the tiny town of Lake Louise. Situated at 5400 feet, this is Canada’s most elevated community. The lake is named after Princess Louise, Duchess of Argyll. Settled in 1884, the area served as an outpost for The Canadian Pacific Railway.

Now, an immense Chateau sits on the Eastern flank of the lake. Originally built in 1890, the hotel allured deep pocketed travellers to travel by train to take in the scenic landscape of the West.

Chateau Lake Louise - Tami Ellis

As many times as I’ve hiked and climbed here, I have never paddled the lake. It takes commitment to shuttle our kayak and paddle board along the trails to the water, but it is well worth the sweat equity. It is a beautiful experience to be here at a time when the lake is so quiet. The color of the water is unexplainable other than otherworldly blue. It might conjure scenes of the Caribbean, except that at 39 degrees Fahrenheit, the glacier waters are bone-chillingly frigid.

Paddling in Lake Louise.  Photo-Tami Ellis

The psychedelic turquoise comes from fine dust created by the movement of the glacier to bedrock. The sediment is suspended in the water and refracts blue and green wavelengths of light. Some scientists say that as glaciers melt, the color may change in years to come.

The author’s dog - Tami Ellis

Sentinel Pass

Sentinel Pass is on our agenda. We awaken at the crack of dawn wanting to hike up to where massive spires stand guard over verdant valleys. A cup of warm, creamy coffee soothes the belly and primes us for the day. We pack up the camper and drive away from the village of Lake Louise. At 7:30 a.m., we are disappointed to see a man waving a sign stating that the parking lot is full.

I shout at him from the window. “We want to hike Sentinel. Is there room?” He waves us in and yells that we can take a normal spot. It pays to ask questions or pray. We toss our plan B and drive to the trailhead near Moraine Lake which is another turquoise jewel. This is the start and finish point for hiking to Sentinel Pass. 

Moraine Lake. Photo- Tami Ellis

We scour the camper for our lunch and snacks, putting careful attention into what we may need for mountain travel. Based upon challenging experiences, I make it a point to prepare for all seasons even if the day begins at 80 degrees. This means that in addition to sunscreen and a brimmed hat, I also pack an extra set of leggings, a rain shell, and a down coat or vest. One just never knows when hail shall rain down or mountain winds come out of nowhere … or “now here,” as we say in the world of yoga and wilderness travel.

As we travel along the path, there is a bit of exposure on the left side where a misstep could send a person sliding down a massive scree slope. Eyes on the trail and calculated steps keep us safe and moving forward. As the top of the saddle becomes closer, I shift gears into my second breath. The views are worth the agonized legs. Rock, spires, and giant chimneys greet us at the top.

Standing at the saddle of Sentinel Pass.  Photo- Tami Ellis

Out in the distance is a climber ascending a chimney that is standing alone. His white helmet and red shirt are stark against the smoky haze.

Lunch on a ledge is a sheer delight. We stay for a while and take in the beauty of this precious life before retracing our steps back to Moraine Lake.

To climb mountains is to suffer. There is nothing easy about getting to the top, but isn’t character about putting boots to the ground and start walking, knowing that it will bring a certain amount of discomfort?

And a renewed sense of living.

Photo Credit: Greg Faught

Tami Ellis is a writer and photographer that has been blessed with a life living in the hills of Montana with her husband and on her family ranch nestled between the cut banks of the South Saskatchewan River in Alberta, Canada. Inspired by the world, she has been to 47 countries. She can be reached at twofeetoneworld@gmail.com

How to Get There

From Calgary, drive approximately 180 km or 2 hours west on the Trans Canada Highway to the village of Lake Louise. Be sure to stop in Canmore and Banff along the way. You will enter the Banff National Park by way of the Entrance Gates. Payment of a Park Pass is mandatory. https://banff.com/banff-park-fees/

For more information, see BanffLakeLouise.com and https://parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ab/banff/visit/les10-top10/louise

This article is adapted from my earlier publication in The Epoch Times. https://www.theepochtimes.com/bright/a-journey-to-banff-national-park-3982475

Montana’s Jewel

“Hidden away by the Gods, like a necklace of pearls, among the crags and vastness of the Swan Mountains, lies the Jewel Basin; the enchanted land of this, our Montana. Friends, I have seen the sun set on the minarets of Spain, and make splendid the dome of St. Sophia in Constantinople. I have watched the play of color upon the desert of Egypt with the Sphinx and pyramids. I have made a trail through the hinterland of the Canadian Rockies to where the Aurora Borealis from the polar skies make the northern night glorious … but for kaleidoscopic lights and shadows, for octaves of tone and color, for unending variety of the moods and forms of nature, Jewel Basin is the most charmed and charming spot in all the world.”—From “The Secret of Wilderness,” by the Rev. Eugene Cosgrove, 1919.

The crown of the continent sits regally upon the rocky outcrop and snow-capped peaks of the Rocky Mountains shared between Canada and the United States. Glittering lakes reflect the beauty of the golden halo that encompasses more than 10 million acres surrounding Waterton, Canada, Glacier National Park, and the Bob Marshall Wilderness in Montana.This is a wild, expansive ecosystem that comprises national parks, Forest Service land, private land, and tribal territories. Jewel Basin is but one gemstone that sits within the crown.

Getting There

Getting to Jewel is the initial adventure. I am thrilled by wild roads. Four of us pack 2017 Jeep Wrangler. We begin the ascent up the narrow, winding gravel road, unsure of whether or not we will be blocked by the impact of seasonal storms. The road is barely wide enough to hold one vehicle, so being in the Jeep feels comforting, considering the cliffside drops and ruggedness of the track. On our left side, the Flathead Valley plays peek-a-boo with the tree-covered slopes of Jewel. It takes about half hour to make the bumpy, seven-mile journey before we arrive at the trailhead aptly called “Camp Misery.”

Up to Mount Aeneas

It is said that the only way to know a place is by putting boots on the ground. One foot in front of the other, we climb toJewel’s highest peak, Mount Aeneas (7,528 feet).

Mount Aeneas affords a 360-degree rooftop view of the Bob Marshall Wilderness, Glacier National Park, Hungry Horse Reservoir, and the lower expanse of the Flathead Valley. In other words, the stunning views and photographic capture of nature in its glory are well worth the effort.

The sweeping views are lightly touched, expansive and serene. As we approach the summit, we are inspired by the regal creature looking back at us. Like the earliest inhabitants of this valley, he stands on the summit, surveying his surroundings and seems not bothered by our presence.

As I stand and gaze out over this snow-kissed valley, I can’t help but feel such gratitude for my legs, lungs, companions and a curiosity to explore the wonder of our world. There is always some suffering during the work to get to lofty heights, but we are always rewarded with magnificent beauty and a renewed appreciation for what it means to be alive.

They say that diamonds are a girl’s best friend, but I know I’d rather have the Jewel. And the dog.

If You Go

For Information: Call the Kalispell Visitor Center at 406-758-2809.

Driving Directions: From Bigfork, Montana, take Highway 35 north to Highway 83. Head east to the junction of Echo Lake Road. Stop for breakfast at the amazing Echo Lake Cafe and then head north on Echo Lake Road. Drive 3 miles to the junction of Jewel Basin Road (No. 5392). Follow this steep, mountain road 7 miles to the trailhead. Do not tow trailers. Four-wheel-drive vehicles strongly recommended.

Season: July to early October.

Note: No mountain bikes, horses, or motorized vehicles on the trails. Dogs on leash. Group size limited to 12. Camping permits are not required. Time: 3 to 4 hours to summit and return. Strenuous.

Tami Ellis is a writer that has been blessed with a life living in the hills of Montana with her husband and on her family ranch nestled between the cut banks of the South Saskatchewan River in Alberta, Canada. Inspired by the world, she has been to 47 countries. She can be reached at twofeetoneworld@gmail.com

This article is adapted from my earlier publication in The Epoch Times. https://www.theepochtimes.com/bright/montanas-jewel-3900306